Sunday, 15 July 2018

TONY MATELLI'S TAKE ON RUNWAY SETS







[ PHOTOGRAPHY: Another Magazine ]


John Galliano asked artist Tony Matelli to design the set for Maison Margiella's first Artisinal Men's show. What he produced is fresh and innovative. The set is the epitome of well excecuted juxtaposition with classic statues sitting in front of red pvc which formed an industrial backdrop. Bronze casts of fruit were then hand-painted to look like the real thing and placed upon the busts and figures. The overall set achieved set curated a mood perfect for that of an Artisinal Men's show without the need of making a scene. Unlike other fashion houses such as Chanel and Dior, Galliano and Matelli have created a subjective backdrop which encouraged their consumers to challenge and interpret ideas. It adds another level on the runway and I think it is a direction in which other CEO's should follow.

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Emily
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Tuesday, 29 May 2018

FASHION UNRAVELED (FIT MUSEUM EXHIBITION)





[ PHOTOGRAPHY: Museum at FIT ]

"Fashion Unraveled takes a different approach by examining the concepts of imperfection, incompletion, and memory in fashion. More than sixty objects, dating from the 18th century to the present, are organized into five themes. “Behind the Seams” provides anecdotes on a garment’s creation or the way it was worn. “Mended and Altered” focuses on the varied and sometimes imperceptible ways a garment was modified over its history, while “Repurposed” features clothing that has been entirely remade. “Unfinished” addresses garments that are incomplete, either by chance or by choice. Finally, “Distressed and Deconstructed” discusses the ways in which designers have consciously embraced an aesthetic of imperfection in their work. All of the featured objects question our preconceived notions of beauty and value in fashion, and shed light on the importance of the stories that can be told by the garments themselves." - Introduction to the exhibition.

A new exhibition at the Museum at FIT has been unveiled and it's innovative way at looking at fashion, textiles and the exhibiting of garments is refreshing. It looks at garments that are incomplete or have been taken apart, altered or mended and sorts them into categories which explains why this has occurred. The exhibit pays homage to the skills of makers whose visions are portrayed by the garment, whatever its final outcome, and to museum curators whose skills in the preservation of aging textiles helps to lengthen the lifespan of the designer's vision. My favourite part of the exhibition is the stories that are told by each piece and I believe these to be the most interesting and important thing about the garments. You can view the online exhibition here.

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Emily
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Monday, 28 May 2018

PUMA X ASOS SUSTAINABLE COLLECTION



[ PHOTOGRAPHY: ASOS ]

ASOS have collaborated with PUMA on a unisex and sustainable athleisure collection. Each piece is unisex and most are available in an alternative range of plus sizes. The t-shirts and sweaters are made from sustainably sourced organic cotton and ASOS have said that each piece leaves a small carbon footprint. I think its great for the ethical and sustainable fashion industry for two very well known brands to collaborate. Especially because of the popularity of sportswear and athleisure currently among consumers. The opportunity to still own branded clothing and yet know that what you are wearing is sustainable, is brilliant for consumers, in particular for those new to ethical fashion. Additionally, the inclusivity of the collection to people of any gender and size is great to see, as well as models of different ethnicities being used to promote the range. Furthermore, the use of graphics emphasising the need to be conscious of the environment on the garments themselves will spread the values of the brands and those of the consumer. The collection is an example of how simple changes can have a huge impact.

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Emily
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Wednesday, 16 May 2018

SHORTLIST: ISOSCELES LINGERIE



[ PHOTOGRAPHY: Isosceles ]


My final shortlist contender is Isosceles lingerie. Their fun and innovative designs focus on the empowerment of women in what they want out of their underwear. They provide seductive pieces that are high quality and comfortable to wear. The brands positioning in the more niche end of the lingerie section would make them fun to work with, especially when designing a fragrance. I also believe their lack of story would be a great clean slate to start from. You can explore the brand more here.

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Emily
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Tuesday, 15 May 2018

SHORTLIST: RITUEL DE FILLE





[ PHOTOGRAPHY: Rituel De Fille ]



Rituel de Fille is the second brand on my shortlist. It is a natural, cruelty free makeup brand that produces beautiful pigments. They have a celestial and bewitching aesthetic that I love. It's great to see a cosmetic brand that besides being cruelty free, has a strong story as most beauty brands do not. I think it's a great base for a fragrance to grow off and to further tell or twist the story it shares to consumers in order to keep the brand fresh. You can explore the brand here.

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Emily
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Monday, 14 May 2018

SHORTLIST: LRS STUDIO




[ PHOTOGRAPHY: LRS Studio ]



As part of my last project for my first year at university, I have been asked to select one of eight brands to create a fragrance for. I thought I would share my shortlist on my blog as a visual introduction to them as I believe them to be innovative and exciting smaller businesses. The first one I am sharing today is LRS Studio. This fashion brand offers exciting silhouettes, colour and pattern combinations and has made it onto my shortlist for this reason. I believe that their wide range of influences, of which it would be exciting to explore, give me great scope to create an innovative fragrance for the brand. You can explore the brand for yourself here.

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Emily
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Saturday, 12 May 2018

NEW WAYS TO WEAR CHANEL NO.5 L'EAU



[ PHOTOGRAPHY: Chanel ]

Chanel have just given you two new ways you can wear No.5 L'eau. They have released a body mist and "On Hand" roll-on cream. The packaging is clean minimal, quite far from luxury. I believe they are trying to target a consumer who needs something more practical to fit into their busy lives, like the working woman. 

The body mist is advertised as travel friendly and will be a permanent edition to the fragrance family. However, the body cream is limited edition and I believe will be bought as a bit of a gimmick. I think the push to create something a little different using the same fragrance was a good concept but the outcomes are not very innovative and feel like something you would get free in a One Direction perfume set from Superdrug. So maybe not the best move from the luxury brand.

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Emily
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Wednesday, 9 May 2018

MET GALA 2018: SAINTS + SINNERS


My favourite look from the Met Gala came from Alessandro Michele, Lana Del Rey and Jared Leto. It's beautiful Gucci maximalism at its best.


Zoe Kravitz wearing Anthony Vaccarello for Saint Laurent isn't the most respectful of looks from the red carpet with it resembling a head covering worn to pay respect. However, she looks amazing so I'll forgive her.


Another look where morals could be questioned as Rihanna dressed as a Pope in Margiela and Louboutin. Nobody else could pull this off.


Little rant here. Why did we dress Ashley Graham like this? Yes she looks stunning but it looks like any old red carpet look, not a Met Gala dress based on fashion and the Catholic Imagination. I can't help but think her position as a plus size model prevented an exciting design from gracing our Instagram. The girl deserves better.


Send her back to Coachella.


Someone please inform me how this relates to the theme.


Gigi Hadid's Versace gown was incredible. I love the angelic reference with the golden wing.


Cara Delevigne in Dior is beautiful, the paneling is different to other dresses and I love the headpiece.


I don't love it, yes it's a gorgeous golden Versace dress, but its predictable.


The most head turning gown came from Blake Lively in Versace. Taking over 600 hours to make I believe the outcome is breathtaking and reflects the Heavenly Bodies theme perfectly.


I adore Lily Collins Givency dress. The headpiece is gorgeous, the cross detail she's holding is beautiful and I love the gothic influences.

[ PHOTOGRAPHY: Vogue ]

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Emily
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Saturday, 5 May 2018

THE CLOSURE OF WARDOUR NEWS (AND THE FUTURE OF PRINT)


[ PHOTOGRAPHY: Vogue ]

Wardour News is closing after thirty-four years and it leaves me to question the future of print. The Soho newsagents famously stocked a range of independent publications and was a mecca for print lovers. Sadly due to the increasing age of the owners and increase in rent, it is having to close its doors to the world. Even though the situation can't be helped, it means there is one less place to buy print magazines on the high street. Personally, I like to flick through magazines in shops before I buy them as their physical appeal is important to me. Therefore, this concerns me, because if other consumers also have this shopping habit then what is left for the future of print in the digital age?

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Emily
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Thursday, 3 May 2018

RAW PRINT LIVE (BOSHEMIA + OM NOM)



[ PHOTOGRAPHY: Myself ]

Yesterday was the last Raw Print Live of the academic season. If you're a print lover and live anywhere near Nottingham you need to get yourself to one of these when they start again in October. Held on the first Wednesday of every month, Raw Print hosts a public lecture where they invite the founders of independent magazines to give a talk on how they started out in the industry. I find independent magazines really exciting and would love to start my own one day so being able to get this insider information is invaluable to me. 

The speakers were from Boshemia and Om Nom magazines. Boshemia is an art and culture magazine with a focus on Feminism and Om Nom is an ethical food magazine. One important lesson I took away from both talks was that you need to find your niche. If someone else is already doing what you want to do then unless you can do it a lot better, you have to do something nobody is. Another piece of advice from the speakers was that you have to be passionate about your magazine. You will not succeed without this passion as when you start out it will be your labour of love. 

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Emily
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Saturday, 28 April 2018

SELFRIDGES RADICAL LUXURY CAMPAIGN




[ PHOTOGRAPHY: Google ]

Selfridges have been seeking the meaning of luxury today and what it could mean in the future. Their new "Radical Luxury" campaign, consisting of a short film, social media promotion and in-store merchandising explores this concept. The film, produced by Nobert Schoemer, takes inspiration from surrealist artists and will be aired in cinemas across the country. 

The campaign is innovative and is a high culture promotional tool requiring the audience to think deeply about the meaning behind it. They would have to have a great cultural understanding to relate the film to surrealist artists such as Dali as well. This targeting of consumer will work well for Selfridges and also makes sense as an approach as the whole campaign is focused on luxury. However, with eye catching, bold visuals the campaign should also be fairly accessible to other consumer groups too. I think this makes the campaign quite innovative as it doesn't offer straight forward communication to consumers. This means they will spend more time considering the campaign and therefore be thinking about the brand longer.


 "Luxury is about roughness instead of perfection. Luxury is about the controlled and uncontrolled. To me, luxury is the difference between recorded and live music." - Fashion Designer, Yang Li

According to Selfridges, luxury is and involves:

TransientSomething luxurious can be a sudden and euphoric moment in time which we should recognise and remember but often don't.

One of a Kind - We are overloaded with choice and information so it is the one of a kind things that now describe the meaning of luxury.

Time - Luxury celebrates the richness and wisdom that only time and age can bring.

Transformative It can effect how people feel momentarily or the course of someones life altogether.

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Emily
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Sunday, 22 April 2018

ASOS Made In Kenya: Cultural Appreciation







[ PHOTOGRAPHY: ASOS ]

The ASOS Made in Kenya collection is produced in partnership with SOKO Kenya and employs local seamstresses to create beautiful garments inspired by the Kenyan landscape. The organisation offers education and training to the employees as well as putting money back into the wider community which funds things, such as eye care, for local people. The brand has just released its latest collection for S/S 18 and has been celebrated by Vogue as a brand built on cultural appreciation, not appropriation. You can read the article here. I found the comparison to other brands inspired by Africa and their cultural appropriation, compared to Made in Kenya's approach, enlightening. The article pointed out that the difference is that the patterns have not been copied from traditional tribal prints or designs and that they have instead been inspired by the beauty of the location and focuses more on the colourful culture. Furthermore some of the patterns and motifs have been designed by local school children. I believe the collection is a celebration of Kenya. As well as avoiding cultural appropriation through design, the organisation is based on an ethical system and respects the country that it takes its inspiration from.

I believe as a storyteller I can learn a lot from this thoughtful approach to fashion and consider whether I could be potentially appropriating something through my communication to consumers and then work to divert my story in a different and more respectful direction.

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Emily
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Thursday, 15 March 2018

FRANCA: CHAOS + CREATION



"Franca: Chaos and Creation" is a documentary produced by Franca Sozzani's son celebrating her career as editor in chief of Italian Vogue and the controversy she created with her artistic vision. 

Sozzani made Italian Vogue what it is today, she grew it from a generic fashion magazine to one highly focused on art and storytelling. Her editorials were controversial and progressive. She would express her views on current worldwide issues through fashion as it was the only way she knew how. People believed that she was glamourising sensitive topics such as her editorials on domestic violence and the BP oil spill, however she argued that it was simply drawing attention to subjects that required it. This is what made her such an innovative editor, she was able to use fashion as a way to tell stories like fashion magazines had never done before and has inspired and formed the modern fashion magazine.

I found the documentary highly inspiring, Sozzani's innovation and creativity will always remind me of the power I hold as a storyteller.

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Emily
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Thursday, 8 February 2018

HEGARTY ON CREATIVITY

 



[ PHOTOGRAPHY: Myself ]


Besides my love for the aesthetic, the doodles and the humour, this little book has taught me a lot about creativity. It has opened my eyes to looking at creativity from a different perspective and has taught me how to rip apart my thoughts and glue them back together in a way that utilises my creative talent as a storyteller. Below are some segments from the book and the observations I made from them, but you HAVE to read the book yourself, it's eye opening.

ORIGINALITY IS DEPENDENT UPON THE OBSCURITY OF YOUR SOURCES

There is no such thing as originality. Your idea only exists in relation to other ideas. However, if you explore an array of sources for inspiration, then your idea can be fresher than others. This makes for a good one.

WORDS ARE A BARRIER TO COMMUNICATION

We are living in an ever-increasing visual society with so much information thrown at us. It is easier for us to absorb all this visually and so as storytellers we must utilise this. Furthermore, the words we do use must communicate effectively with fewer of them.

WHEN THE WORLD ZIGS, ZAG

Always look in the opposite direction to find a more innovative idea, never go with the most obvious option. Sometimes looking for something that might not link to your original idea can lead to new concepts and an innovative outcome.

SWAP SEATS

If we go about our lives in the same daily routine then we will look at everything in the same way, from the same angle. We need to have regular change to stimulate new ideas and therefore should keep changing from our routines, whether that be changing your workplace or moving cities.

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Emily
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Wednesday, 7 February 2018

THE YEAR IN FASHION: 1998




As I was searching through fashion documentaries to watch I found this rather dated American one on the year 1998. This just so happens to be the year I was born and it was monumental in the fashion industry. From Donatella's debut after tributes had been paid to Gianni Versace at the Met Gala to the rise of young American designers taking on Parisian houses, a lot was happening. Below are some observations I had:

TOM FORD AT GUCCI


Far from the Gucci we adore today, Tom Ford's time at the brand in the 90's achieved well executed minimalism. He focused on small details of the garments like a tiny logo which he said let people know it was Gucci. I loved his use of underwear combined with outerwear garments as it felt much more innovative than what other designers were achieving with the minimalist macro trend at the time.

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN


In a time of minimalism, McQueen, nine shows into his career, was pushing boundaries and creating innovative garments and shows. His Spring 1998 show saw rain fall onto the catwalk, drenching models with choppy haircuts in provocative designs. At the time this was so exciting and innovative, yet as designers now try to achieve controversy, it leaves me questioning what is actually controversial and what is now socially normal. 

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Emily
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